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But young Monsteras will start with smaller leaves. The first few that a seeding puts out will only be a couple of inches wide at most. The plant will produce larger leaves over time, as it establishes itself and as you begin to figure out precisely the kind of care that it needs to thrive.
As with any issue pertaining to a Monstera deliciosa, overwatering is an even more severe issue than underwatering. While both are stressful for the plant, overwatering can lead to other problems, including fungus gnats and root rot. Root rot is a serious issue that can be fatal to your Monstera. (More information on root rot here!)
In general, family units of sperm whales comprise mature females together with juvenile and baby whales. According to everything I've read about sperm whales, such family units tend to be found in temperate and tropical regions.
When little boy sperm whales get bigger and become young men, they leave these groups and travel to colder climates (north in the northern hemisphere, south in the southern), where they presumably go to eat a lot, hang out with the other boys, and get ready to return at some point to seek out mate(s).
This is a pattern common to many (perhaps all?) cetaceans. Dolphins and humpback whales I've been in the water with, for example, have a similar morphology, making it easy to identify a given whale's sex...provided that they're not shy, of course.
To begin with, the shape of Monstera leaves depends on the age of the plant. If your monstera has some leaves with fenestrations and some without, you might notice that the splits appear on the newest leaves. Fenestrations appear when the Monstera is old and happy enough to produce mature leaves with splits.
If you see a monstera plant with large split leaves and no smaller baby leaves, it was likely propagated from a top cutting (learn more about propagating monstera in our ultimate guide). Using this method, the new plant got a head start on its leaf maturity.
Monstera leaves unfurl with all the fenestrations they will have already formed. An existing leaf cannot grow new splits. As a result, if you see cracks or tears in a Monstera leaf, it is most likely structural damage and not a split leaf forming. Additionally, leaves can sometimes crack when unfurling if the humidity is too low (see our humidity guide). Also, here is what to do with damaged Monstera leaves.
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Leaves that have split because of a lack of humidity or leaves that have been damaged because of a pet will not heal. The slits and tears will remain, and brown calluses will mark the location of the tears.
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2. Next, you need a molt that has the abdomen flesh containing the book lungs intact. If the abdomen has been completely shredded in this area, you will find it difficult or impossible to sex the molt. I try to grab the molts from spiders I want to sex right after they molt (as long as I can do it without disturbing the tarantula).
Sexing may seem daunting and confusing at first, but with enough practice, most keepers will be successfully identifying the genders of larger specimens in no time. And honestly, the first time you examine a molt and discovering that the sling you have raised for a year is a little lady makes all of the effort and frustration worth it.
Myiasis is infection with the larval stage (maggots) of various flies. Flies in several genera may cause myiasis in humans. Dermatobia hominis is the primary human bot fly. Cochliomyia hominovorax is the primary screwworm fly in the New World and Chrysomya bezziana is the Old World screwworm. Cordylobia anthropophaga is known as the tumbu fly. Flies in the genera Cuterebra, Oestrus and Wohlfahrtia are animal parasites that also occasionally infect humans.
Infestations with D. hominis are often characterized by cutaneous swellings on the body or scalp that may produce discharges and be painful. Death is rare, but there have been instances of cerebral myiasis in children where larvae enter the brain. Infestations with C. hominovorax, which causes wound myiasis, can be more serious, as this species may travel through living tissue in the body and not stay subdermal like most of the other species of flies that cause myiasis. Death has occurred with severe infestations of C. hominovorax. Secondary bacterial infections may also occur. Oestrus ovis has been known to cause a condition called ophthalmomyiasis, which is infection of the eye with fly larvae. Flies in the genera Phormia and Phaenicia cause facultative myiasis, where adult flies lay their eggs in pre-existing, festering wounds and do not invade healthy, living tissue.
Cochliomyia hominovorax is the primary screwworm fly in the New World. Larvae are obligate parasites of living flesh in humans and other mammals. Human cases are not common but may be seen in regions where livestock is tended. Female flies oviposit on or near pre-existing wounds or on mucous membranes just inside the nose or mouth. Larvae feed subdermally and may cause extensive tissue damage. Human deaths have occurred from tissue destruction. Human cases have been drastically reduced in the United States and Mexico by a sterile male release program. Females mate only once, so mating with a sterile male ensures the next generation will not happen.
Members of the genus Lucilia are also agents of facultative myiasis in humans, whereby adult flies lay eggs in pre-existing, festering wounds. Unlike other agents of myiasis, they do not invade healthy, living tissue. Larvae are characterized by a complete peritreme, three straight slits in each posterior spiracle, and mandibles without an accessory sclerite.
A greenhouse is not necessary for successful propagation by stem cuttings; however, maintaining high humidity around the cutting is critical. If rooting only a few cuttings, you can use a flower pot (Figure 1). Maintain high humidity by covering the pot with a bottomless milk jug or by placing the pot into a clear plastic bag. Cuttings can also be placed in plastic trays covered with clear plastic stretched over a wire frame (Figure 2). Trays must have holes in the bottoms for drainage. The plastic will help keep the humidity high and reduce water loss from the cuttings.
Hardwood cuttings are taken from dormant, mature stems in late fall, winter, or early spring. Plants generally are fully dormant with no obvious signs of active growth. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Hardwood cuttings are used most often for deciduous shrubs but can be used for many evergreens. Examples of plants propagated at the hardwood stage include forsythia, privet, fig, grape, and spirea.
The fertility status of the stock (parent) plant can influence rooting. Avoid taking cuttings from plants that show symptoms of mineral nutrient deficiency. Conversely, plants that have been fertilized heavily, particularly with nitrogen, may not root well. The stock plant should not be under moisture stress. In general, cuttings taken from young plants root in higher percentages than cuttings taken from older, more mature plants. Cuttings from lateral shoots often root better than cuttings from terminal shoots.
Early morning is the best time to take cuttings, because the plant is fully turgid. It is important to keep the cuttings cool and moist until they are stuck. An ice chest or dark plastic bag with wet paper towels may be used to store cuttings. If there will be a delay in sticking cuttings, store them in a plastic bag in a refrigerator. 041b061a72